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Cambodia

Filed under: Cambodia — 7 November 2005 @ 11:35 am Edit This

Cambodia has been more than I had hoped for. For the traveller, it is a place that even doing semi- nice accommodation only runs into a few dollars. Incredibly cheap. The country is very poor and perhaps the level of corruption through government cliques is the most obvious of alln countries, but having said that, any travel here will become immensely rewarding. Seriously, the poverty here is beyond ones imagination. I remarked last week that there’s more amputees than you can shake a stick at- which isn’t far from the truth. Beggars everywhere. It’s only when you start delving into the underbelly of local knowledge that you here that half of the beggars are in fact road traffic victims, or the woman holding a leg bound waif of a child is in fact the owner of a brand new motorbike. I stopped giving after hearing this. You can give until you think you’ve given to virtually everyone in Siem Reap, and then you’d have anpther 300 street urchins smothering you with their pitiful circumstances. I paint a very dour picture, although in truth it’s not that bad once you become adjusted. What is true however is that the Khmer race appears to weant to methodically and consistently fuck you in the ass. No matter how friendly they appear, with the greatest respect they show you, a friend for life, behind the facial charade, they ARE or WILL BE scheming to extract as much cash from you as humanly possible, from the time they actually meet you to the time and beyond you leave their presence. It appears quite systematic. I think their recent past has taught them not to trust.

Anyway, let’s skip this and move onto more enjoyable subject matter.

The temples at Angkor Wat are certainly the most amazing set of temples, architecture, call it what you want- that I have ever seen. They piss on Borabador in Java. Nasty comment, but that’s the only way I feel I can portray the chasm of difference; the sheer size, intricacy and scope of the elaborate temple network. Even related to more modern day wonders, such as say St Marks Square in Venice, St Pauls Cathederal in London, or even the pyramids of Egypt, it is beyond comprehension how a race could sculpture a series of temples so huge, over 1000 years ago. How they still stand, the intricacy of detail that still exists and latterly the restoration work that has promoted them into the public eye, as well as protected them from further abuse is mind boggling.

You hear and talk to local Khmers about the 1970’s and 80’s- the Pol Pot era, and it is very much in their minds what atrocities went on. Most have stories to tell, or missing family members. You have to remember that under the regime, over 3 million people were brutally and mercilessly tortured raped and killed. Pol’s basic aim, engineered through an impossible romanticised version of communism was to return Cambodia, home of the Khmer, to the glories and spoils that had once existed 1000 years ago. Then they had fought war after war with their neighbours and fourished. So to provide the people with strength to fight, bouyed with the germanic model of growth prior to the second world war, food for the fighters had to be in plentiful supply, hence the reason Pol ordered everyone back into the rice fields. All foreign trade was curtailed and counterplot soon vapourised due to any minor rebellion being snuffed fairly immediately. The irony was that the spoils of the land, i.e. rice, was then sold to other countries and the vast wealth gathered from this elaborate exercise went to high ranking regime plutocrats. Cambodia soon collapsed into turmoil, the sick face of the world’s famine charities- a victim of greed and persecution. My reason for mentioning this was the temples. Pol Pot romanticised that Cambodia could be that powerful again. In history, the most powerful civilisations in the East around 950 ad were China and Cambodia, under the Khmer empire. He was of course a flawed and fairly sick meglomaniac living off power and wealth brought about through aggression and almost murderingan entire race or people. Quite bizarre.

I have no doubt that in a few years, Cambodia, if it isn’t all ready, will be a mecca for the backpacker- where they will undoubtedly attach it on to any trail through S E Asia. Currently, vietnam and Laos are somewhat vogue- Cambodia will follow. The level of building here in Siem Reap can be witnessed first hand. Speaking to pub owners, property prices have quadruplued in lass than 2 years. It’s been a pleaasure to come here, and no doubt, at some stage I will return. Just glad I saw it before it gets too out of hand with the backpacker brigade. The scum of the earth.

344 Comments »

  1. Dad:

    You were a backpacker once!!
    Sounds like you added to your experience pile, although, there’s now no chance of converting Mother to rough it round the world. On second thoughts our expectations are 3 star minimum now.
    How’s the study going ??
    Can’t wait for the Borneo experience.
    See you at the end of the month.

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